Difference between revisions of "Engine"

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==Solo Rules==
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Engine block must be the same make as the car (Mazda), with some technicalities about cross-make stuff (we could use a ford probe motor since it's the same thing as the 323).  Aside from that, everything's virtually unrestricted.
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==Build Order==
 
==Build Order==
  

Revision as of 12:05, 17 November 2011

Solo Rules

Engine block must be the same make as the car (Mazda), with some technicalities about cross-make stuff (we could use a ford probe motor since it's the same thing as the 323). Aside from that, everything's virtually unrestricted.

Build Order

It looks like we can do this in a very nicely incremental fashion. We can get the 99 motor installed, do the various conversion notes below, and it will, in theory, run just fine on the 1.6 electronics. Once we know that's running, then we can do the Megasquirt conversion (and use the cam angle sensor just like a 1.6) and get that going. Once that's going then the electronics are basically all done and we can focus on the supercharging.

Finally, we can look at changing throttle bodies (since the conversion will use the 1.6 throttle body, which I believe is smaller) and see what's involved in that while we work on building the 99 motor for the supercharger.

Do we want to try to do this ourselves or just pay Flyin Miata a metric asston for one of their absurdly expensive builds?

Rev Limit

I was originally going to go with 7500 rpms, since that's a super safe stock limit. However, lots of people seem to be revving to 7800-8000 and above on stock internals and not exploding stuff much (Fuji Racing has been revving to 9k on stock internals and only finally blew up a motor). I figure on the overbuild internals I'm throwing in there, 8000 should be more than safe. Unfortunately that doesn't really help us on gear ratios.

1.8 Conversion Notes/Parts

Flyin Miata makes a 1.8 conversion kit for 194$ that looks like it will make our lives a little easier. They have a good writeup of the conversion process as well.

Make sure to use a 94-97 alternator. The 99 alternator doesn't have an internal regulator and will totally hose the NA electrical system.

In theory, we can just swap the 1.6 thermostat housing over to the 1.8 motor to maintain the working electrics. Also move the 1.6 FPR over to the 1.8 fuel rail end so that it turns into a return system. Here's a good Miata.net post about it as well.

Parts Research

I've stored some Other Builds for reference.

  • Block/Head: Used 99 motor - Bought
  • Rebuild Gasket Set: 201$ from Mazdacomp - Bought
  • Mazdacomp Engine Mounts: 35$/ea, NAY1-39-040 - Bought

Block

Head

Fuel

Solo Rules

16.1.D.3 allows basically everything. Open fuel lines, pump, filter, pressure regulator. Cool can allowed (up to 1 gallon).

Injectors

What injectors will we need? 1000cc or can we get away with less? I got 392whp on the Alltrac with 880cc injectors without coming too close to maxing out.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

The KLiata has an adjustable FPR on it. May be easier to steal that and fit it back with a normal stock FPR if I don't supercharge it.

Fuel Pump

I have a Walbro 255HP and Miata install kit sitting on the shelf to go in whenever.

Fuel Filter

How heavy is the stock unit? Are aftermarket units lighter?

Induction

Pre-Supercharger

Presumably a simple cone filter of some sort. Need to wait to see how the supercharger attaches before deciding this.

Supercharger

I currently own a Lysholm 1600AX that I was going to use on the KLiata. It was about 2200$, plus 300$ for the snout. It has a maximum pressure ratio of 2.2:1, which is probably below what we're going to be running. The compressor map looks like it's going to fall off pretty quickly above 2:1 anyway, though, so I'm still not sure it's a great idea to even try...

I'm interested in the Whipple W100AX, which came out in Sept 2011. Blueprints are available for mocking up a test unit. The unit is 2150$ (had to call and ask) and the direct drive snout option is 140$ (Drive snout options). It flows more than enough for us, and has a pressure ratio up to 3:1 (30psi). Our target will probably end up in the 20psi range, and it's an incredibly efficient supercharger, so I should probably get it...

The Eaton TVS 1320 could also be a viable option, but it doesn't like quite as much pressure ratio. They're harder to get a hold of. Harrop sells a generic 1320 kit for 2500$ AUD (~2530$ USD). The full specs PDF is here and it has a bunch of drive snout options and BPV mounting methods.

We're going to be flowing ~650-700 CFM of air, for reference.

Intercooler

Trying to assess how to do the intercooler...

Air to Air

Big frontmount. Seems like a lot of weight up front, but it's really not all THAT much weight, and is known to work very well. What do Mckee and Strelniks do?

Air to Water

Barrel

Generic barrels are everywhere.

Laminova

Laminova makes neat little cylindrical cores that make for nice compact and efficient intercoolers. I've heard some rumors that they're not as efficient as they claim. Look for more data?

Alternator

We need to use a 94-97 alternator on the 99 block with the 1.6 body. The 99 alternator will blow out the electrical system because it has no voltage regulator built in.

Any weight or efficiency gains to be had with some sort of aftermarket alternator?

Clutch/PP

Spec stage 3+ (SZ453F) - 549$ from Spec, 495$ retail most places on the net

Flywheel

Stock flywheel is 20 lbs, claims FM.

JSC has a good overview of all the options as well.

Motor Mounts

The 1.8 motors use a slightly different motor mount. I'm going to have to get everything here to see what they're talking about. For now, I ordered 2 mazdacomp stiffer mounts, to use with the crazy brackets that FM makes with their 1.8 conversion kit. Prather strongly suggests upgrading to the AWR mounts. 225$, but they look much lighter and better designed as a full solution, and also much stiffer. These are all good things (except the 225$ thing).

Header

Emilio says to just use the Racing Beat 99 header -- I don't need a custom header at these power levels. 408$ from good-win-racing, 410$ from 949. Buying one of those for now. Will possibly explore custom headers further down the road.

Called Prather Racing about a custom header, they forwarded me to his son, Jesse Prather, 785-249-0284. He makes a couple different headers, but for wide powerband he doesn't suggest his biggest one. His is a 4-1, 1.75" primaries, 2.5" collector, and it makes a bunch of power over the RB header in NA applications. He doesn't know if it will help a lot on S/C applications. 900$ for the header. Not too bad at all, really. If the RB can't make the power I need, can get this for stage 2.

Exhaust

Doug wants about 1500$ for a custom 3" exhaust. Don't know how much for 2.5".

I emailed Emilio (949) about what to do for an exhaust with the RB header and he says: I'd suggest custom 2.5" or 2.75". Gonna be insanely loud. big resonator and a really big muffler out back.

Prather Racing suggests doing a 3".

Cooling System

Solo Rules

Keith Brown seems pretty damn sure that the Cooling system falls under SM's big drivetrain exclusion (16.1.D):

D. Drivetrain and related components (induction, ignition, fuel systems, etc.) are unrestricted...

I'd assume so too, but it might be good to get official clarification at some point...

Radiator

Currently stock, but the radiator is brand new (replaced Nov 2011). How much does it weigh (filled)? What are other options that may be both lighter and better? Koyo? I'm guessing we're going to need to upgrade, given that we're tripling the stock power.

  • Stock 1.8 Rad: 4.5 lbs dry, 1500 cc capacity = 3.2 lbs of water = 7.7 lbs total

Radiator Fan

How much does the stock weigh? How much lighter are slimline fans?

Thermostat

Currently Stock. Stock or go lower for autocross? Part of the engine and therefore unrestricted.

Heater

Looks like we need to keep the heater fully intact.

Solo Rules

16.1.A. All Stock, Street Touring, and Street Prepared category modifications are authorized. Except as noted by these rules and the referenced rules, vehicles must be as originally delivered including all road-going components such as lights, wipers, interior, heater, etc.

Water Pump

Stock. Any benefit and/or possibility of going electric?

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