Difference between revisions of "Engine"

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GM has some sort of autotensioner that should work -- looking into the part # now.  BEGi also says to use that piece.  Need to pick one up and figure out where/how to mount it.
 
GM has some sort of autotensioner that should work -- looking into the part # now.  BEGi also says to use that piece.  Need to pick one up and figure out where/how to mount it.
 +
 +
DriveAlign/Gates makes a bunch of auto tensioners that may be useful.
  
 
===Intercooler===
 
===Intercooler===

Revision as of 19:33, 4 March 2012

Solo Rules

Engine block must be the same make as the car (Mazda), with some technicalities about cross-make stuff (we could use a ford probe motor since it's the same thing as the 323). Aside from that, everything's virtually unrestricted.

Rev Limit

Starting with 8000 RPMs. The internals I used are probably good to nearly 9000 RPMs, but I don't think we're going to make any power up there on stock cams anyway, so there isn't much point. Fuji Racing revved to 9k on a stock motor for a while and it took a while to blow up.

1.8 Conversion Notes/Parts

Flyin Miata makes a 1.8 conversion kit for 194$ that looks like it will make our lives a little easier. They have a good writeup of the conversion process as well. It turns out that I'm going to use basically none of the kit except the motor mounts, since I did all the rewiring already. Oh well.

Make sure to use a 94-97 alternator. The 99 alternator doesn't have an internal regulator and will totally hose the NA electrical system.

Build Sheet

I've stored some Other Builds for reference.

The motor started life as a stock smoking 99 motor from Panic Motorsports. It was then fully rebuilt with the following:

Block:

Head:

The full rotating assembly was also balanced, without the clutch/flywheel, and then clutch/flywheel were balanced on the crank against themselves.

Head Gasket

Using a stock 99 head gasket for now, since I did the coolant re-route.

Intake Manifold

For now, using the stock 99 manifold. Working on getting something custom made by BEGi for the supercharger, but it's taking Corky a while to get his ducks in a row...

Other Options:

Fuel

Solo Rules

16.1.D.3 allows basically everything. Open fuel lines, pump, filter, pressure regulator. Cool can allowed (up to 1 gallon).

Injectors

RC 750cc Injectors from 949.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Stole the AFPR from the KLiata. Need to see what brand/model it is.

Fuel Pump

I have a Walbro 255HP and Miata install kit sitting on the shelf to go in whenever.

Fuel Filter

How heavy is the stock unit? Are aftermarket units lighter?

Induction

Pre-Supercharger

Presumably a simple cone filter of some sort. Need to wait to see how the supercharger attaches before deciding this.

Supercharger

I currently own a Lysholm 1600AX that I was going to use on the KLiata. It was about 2200$, plus 300$ for the snout. It has a maximum pressure ratio of 2.2:1, which is probably below what we're going to be running. The compressor map looks like it's going to fall off pretty quickly above 2:1 anyway, though, so I'm still not sure it's a great idea to even try...

I'm interested in the Whipple W100AX, which came out in Sept 2011. Blueprints are available for mocking up a test unit. The unit is 2150$ (had to call and ask) and the direct drive snout option is 140$ (Drive snout options). It flows more than enough for us, and has a pressure ratio up to 3:1 (30psi). Our target will probably end up in the 20psi range, and it's an incredibly efficient supercharger, so I should probably get it...

The Eaton TVS 1320 could also be a viable option, but it doesn't like quite as much pressure ratio. They're harder to get a hold of. Harrop sells a generic 1320 kit for 2500$ AUD (~2530$ USD). The full specs PDF is here and it has a bunch of drive snout options and BPV mounting methods.

We're going to be flowing ~650-700 CFM of air, for reference.

Crank Pulley

From FFS: "We can supply 105-130mm 6 rib crank pulleys in 5mm steps. $125 each."

Bought a 120mm pulley, and can go from there.

Tensioner

GM has some sort of autotensioner that should work -- looking into the part # now. BEGi also says to use that piece. Need to pick one up and figure out where/how to mount it.

DriveAlign/Gates makes a bunch of auto tensioners that may be useful.

Intercooler

Corky Bell is going to make me a custom half-width intercooler on the passenger side of the engine bay. Top inlet, bottom outlet. Waiting for final dimensions. Should be similar to this guy, but the sides are switched.

Ignition

Spark Plugs

Starting with NGK R5671A-7 (heat range 7, no-resistor race plugs), which FM recommends for high boost applications. They suggest stock gap (0.030) so I'm starting there.

Coil

1ZZ COPs already set up, and the wiring harness has been modified to use them in place of the stock stuff. More info here.

Alternator

We need to use a 94-97 alternator on the 99 block with the 1.6 body. The 99 alternator will blow out the electrical system because it has no voltage regulator built in.

Don Nimi suggests looking at the Suzuki Spring/Pontiac Firefly alternators.

Clutch/PP/Flywheel

Currently Have: Spec Stage 3+ (SZ453F) clutch kit, and Fidanza Flywheel (both balanced).

Weights (measured by me):

  • Fidanza Flywheel: 9.2 lbs
  • Pressure Plate: 8.9 lbs
  • Clutch Disc: 5.0 lbs
  • Total: 23.1 lbs

949 Racing has a multiplate setup, but the single plate version of that looks pretty ideal. 920$ and 11.9 lbs for the whole setup...

Other Flywheels (and list weights):

JSC has a good overview of all the options as well.

Motor Mounts

  • FM 1.8 conversion mounts + mazdacomp stiff mounts: 6.38 lbs total
  • AWR mounts: 6.28 lbs total, 225$

Prather strongly suggests upgrading to the AWR mounts. I emailed AWR and they say that those (94-00) mounts work fine with a 99 motor in a 93 chassis. They seem to weigh basically identical to the stuff I have in hand, though, so I think I'll start with what I'm holding and if I need stiffer I'll go from there.

Header

Emilio says to just use the Racing Beat 99 Header -- I don't need a custom header at these power levels. 410$ from 949. Bought one of these for now. It's a 4-1 with 1.7" primaries and a 2.375" outlet. We'll see if it makes the power we need. The 420rwhp guy is still using one, so it's probably fine. Superchargers are weird...

Called Prather Racing about a custom header, they forwarded me to his son, Jesse Prather, 785-249-0284. He makes a couple different headers, but for wide powerband he doesn't suggest his biggest one. His is a 4-1, 1.75" primaries, 2.5" collector, and it makes a bunch of power over the RB header in NA applications. He doesn't know if it will help a lot on S/C applications. 900$ for the header. Not too bad at all, really. If the RB can't make the power I need, can get this for stage 2.

Performance Coatings in Tacoma has been suggested by a couple people and is 165$ to coat a 4-cyl long tube header.

Exhaust

Doug wants about 1500$ for a custom 3" exhaust. Don't know how much for 2.5".

I emailed Emilio (949) about what to do for an exhaust with the RB header and he says: I'd suggest custom 2.5" or 2.75". Gonna be insanely loud. big resonator and a really big muffler out back.

Prather Racing suggests doing a 3".

Emailed FM to see what they suggest or if it's easy to adapt one of their turbo exhausts to be quiet enough supercharged.

Cooling System

Radiator

Currently stock, but the radiator is brand new (replaced Nov 2011). Radiator core is approx 26"x13". The full area for the radiator in the front is ~27.5"x17".

  • Stock 1.8 Rad: 4.5 lbs dry, 1500 cc capacity = 3.2 lbs of water = 7.7 lbs total

Look for half-width radiators to fit an intercooler next to it. People suggest civic radiators.

1992-2000 Civic half-size radiators (like this one) seem to be what we're looking for. Need to measure the full area of the rad support area in the bay and mock it up to make sure we can fit everything appropriately.

The Koyo R1570 looks perfect. Need to make sure to get a Koyo radiator cap with it. Full unit seems to be 14.5x18", leaving 13" for the intercooler.

I'm hoping to have Corky Bell make me up a custom half width radiator to go with the intercooler, but it's taking a while so I may re-evaluate that idea soon...

Re-Route

Did the hot side coolant reroute to leave room for the supercharger setup on the cold side using the BEGi kit backwards like this guy describes.

M-tuned also makes a kit sold by 949, but it's cold side only and non-symmetrical.

Radiator Fan

The stock one is actually plastic. The A/C one that looks basically identical is 2.75 lbs, so not as big a deal as I thought. Probably get a slimline fan if/when changing radiators.

Thermostat

Currently Stock. Not planning on changing that unless data shows we need to...

Heater

We need to keep the heater fully intact.

Solo Rules

16.1.A. All Stock, Street Touring, and Street Prepared category modifications are authorized. Except as noted by these rules and the referenced rules, vehicles must be as originally delivered including all road-going components such as lights, wipers, interior, heater, etc.

Water Pump

Stock. Don Nimi says that there may be some small benefit to going electric, but the complexity probably makes it not worth it, especially if we can make all the power we need on the mechanical pump.

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